Country Road, Take Me Home

To the place, Where I belong…

(C’mon, ya’ll, sing along!)

MongoLEEa, Grassland mama,
Take me home, Country road

I’ll tell you one thing that’s utterly anathema to Mongolian culture – and I’m kinda surprised given three generations of Socialist control, though maybe it’s because of three generations of being told what to do by a central authority – and that’s advance planning. But if you can roll with it, it’s kinda fun.

Got a call Saturday from a Korean woman named Kim, who’s the wife of Purevbat, perhaps Mongolia’s most well-known lama. Did I have time to help tweak the English on a translation of a lecture Purevbat was scheduled to deliver in Japan this September? Sure, maybe this week sometime? Um, can you come today? Well, no, I’m busy today. Maybe tomorrow 1 p.m.? OK, good.

10 minutes later. Ring! Ah, Gonchig Lam? We have to go to countryside. Purevbat’s blessing place for stupa and temple. Can you come? Um, sure. Sounds cool. Still 1 p.m.? Yes, see you.

10 minutes later: Ah, Gonchig? Yeeeees. Ah, we will stay overnight. 100 kilometers away. Is it OK? Bring sleeping bag. Also laptop. Roger that.

And off we went, north towards Darkhan to Purevbat’s birthplace, with the lyrical, delicate name of Bornuur, “Brown Lake”. And this was coun-try, ya’ll. I’m talkin’ buuz-fed cuties and windburnt cowboys. No running water and a coupla planks over a hole in a shed for your business. Mutton soup on a cow dung fire. A good bunch of the crowd coming in for Purevbat’s outdoor lecture on horseback. Just felt like pure Mongolia.

First stop was Mama and Papa’s house. Purevbat, as the child who has become a famous lama, is their pride and joy and one of the town’s favorite sons. But Mama and Papa got a lot of pride and joy. Ready to shriek, ladies? Mama bore and raised 15 – I’m sorry, can you hear me in the back? – FIFTEEN children, all of whom have grown into adulthood. I think the Communists exhausted an entire mine to forge her medals as a Great Mother of the Revolution or whatever. Both of them are hardworking, elegant, boundlessly generous people and their compound hums with life and love. Papa’s the one on the right.

We were then given access to a local government office and worked on the translation some. Not so easy and kicked up a bunch of thoughts I think I’ll explore with you Wednesday. But soon several hundred people had gathered and were first entertained by who I’m told is a very famous singer. Purevbat then delivered a very long lecture – my translator gave up after 45 minutes and I think we clocked in at two hours. The basic subject was one Purevbat is passionate about, that Mongolia is a Buddhist nation and at this time it’s everyone’s patriotic duty to rebuild the elements of their cultural and spiritual traditions. Also more on this Wednesday. Then chanting by the monks, more singing by the guy, big shots coming up to offer money for the stupa and temple project, and then off to the lake.

The lake was…a marshy pond, really, and, can you guess? Brown. But as far as I was concerned, it might as well have had an enormous neon sign flashing, Ideal Avian Habitat, complete with a breeding pair of swans. Did I bring my binocs? Of course not, but I did this morning. See below.

After a refreshing snack of fresh yogurt and watermelon, I bedded down early as 6:30 was the wake up call. I had requested a medium-bodied Ethiopian coffee and got nothin’ but a shove into a vehicle headed back to the lake. First task? Everyone had to grab three bricks from a big stack and haul them to the top of a fairly substantial hill. As you can see, other people had smarter ways of bringing their bricks.

The summit was graced by a medium-sized ovoo, near which were four piles of rocks. Apparently the program for the morning was: 7-7:30, Brick Hauling, 7:30-Whenever, Rock Hauling. Together, all of us were making a great big ovoo, next to which would be built a new stupa. So I dutifully took my place in a rock-hauling bucket brigade, while trying not to stare too mournfully at the bazillion birds I could see feeding in and around the lake. After the hauling was done, there was some inscrutable interlude and finally I couldn’t stand it and asked my translator, “Would it be terribly rude if I went down and checked out the lake?” “No, not at…” but whatever else she said didn’t make it to my form scampering down the hill. Again, see below.

I rejoined in time to add my prayers and mantras, while the lay people offered all manner of dairy products – central to their life – on the ovoo. Apparently there are nine auspicious offerings one should make with fresh milk, and some clever Joe or Jane came up with a wooden spoon with nine indentations to do it all at once. The monks were plied with airag, offerings made to the water spirits called nagas, and it was back to Mama’s.

There we heard a shocking thing. Kim had told me on the way that Bornuur has been the site of some particularly aggressive Korean Christian proselytizing. This morning she had elected to stay at home and at some point heard what sounded like call and response protest chanting. Well, that’s exactly what it was but get this. The Koreans had corralled (read: bribed) about 30 small children and were having them shout protest slogans from town toward the ovoo-builders (too far for them to hear). I mean, can you imagine? Children! She said that at one strange point they were having the children chant, in English, the word “Fighting” over and over. If I ran the zoo, a certain group of Korean visas would have been immediately revoked with said visa-holders put on the next plane home. I wonder if these charmers had WWJD bracelets on. That would be some bitter irony. This too will fold into Wednesday’s thoughts.

But the day ended on a sweet note, as I watched Mama do what I heard she had the reputation for – hands-on healing, especially for children. It was so relaxed but at the same time strong and full of love. The mother and child had total confidence in her and I wondered, is this the culture the Korean Xians think they’re fighting? If so, they are really on the wrong battlefield.

Mongolian Birding

Man, I need a real spotting scope. My friend Christie gave me one before I left but the optics are a little screwy and it’s hard to get a clear view. Also I have to say, that working a marshy pond in sandals and red robes doesn’t quite cut it either. Your feet get full of muck and you scare the shier birds. But who cares? I saw a pair of Whooper Swans with four cygnets, which alone would have made my day. The coolest thing was seeing their bonding ritual. Papa Swan (I assume) swam to the other side of the pond and then with great honking and paddling across the surface got himself just airborne and skimmed in just in front of Mama. Then they both happily whooped at each other with much ecstatic undulation of their necks. So totally cool. Other lifers for sure were Northern Lapwing (a flock of about 30) and about the same number of Black-tailed Godwits. The rest of the waders and marsh birds defeated me, though I’ll check if there’s only one common snipe; I flushed up a bunch. There were probably 15-20 lifers to be had but only a good scope would have pulled them in. I can add Coot and Little Grebe as country birds.

I’m happy to say that the main Western expert on Mongolian birds, Axel Braunlich, is in Ulaan Baatar and we’ve already met. We’re scheming to go out soon, so stay tuned.

Comments

[Christian]

Did you know that Korea ranks second in number of overseas Christian missionaries, just before the USA? Did you know that if I want to meet a buddhist, here in Korea, I have to go to a temple in the mountains?

I am not at all surprised by your accounts.

Since the football World Cup 2002, Koreans shout "Fighting!" to impress the adversaries... or encourage the friends. I don't think they understand what it possibly means.

Christian Koreans are very religious and do a lot of prozelitizing and some, occasionally burn down Buddhist temples, without any reaction of the population. If you are interested by the situation here, refer to these old but interesting pages:
http://www.buddhapia.com/eng/
tedesco/index.html

Buddhism is often considered as a superstition or something out of fashion, like a fossile -- in the best case.

My few friends here are all Christians, very Christians, I have no choice, but, at least, they never tried to convert me... until now.

You cannot possibly imagine the number of churches, specially in Seoul, it's amazing, with read neon crosses everywhere...

[Christian]

I forgot to ask a very important question, since you seemed upset by the behaviour of these Christian Koreans: should we, buddhists, do something about this, and, if so, what can we do?

Some countries actually expel Christians missionaries from time to time, as Vietnam, or even always, as Bhoutan. But, as Westeners used to freedom of religion, can/ought we support these policies?

In your previous post, you said that there have been enough squabbling between religions. Is this true, I mean, really true? Religious debate is something promoted inside monastic traditions of Tibetan Buddhism and Catholicism. No Crusade has ever been decided because of a religious debate between Muslims and Christians, right?

I think that we can also tackle this question by noting that I don't think there is even one Buddhist argument against the "Intelligent Design" argument: the recorded arguments are the ones historically used by Hindus, but not used by Christians, especially contemporary fundamentalist or evangelist Christians.

In case of Intelligent Design, scientific arguments are quite enough, though.

[Ja]

Sorry to butt in once again but it is helpful to remember that any attempt to bring enlightenment into our world will meet with the strongest resistance.

As lay buddhists we are not permitted to force our beliefs or even give teachings to those who are unreceptive.It takes immense amounts of merit to find and be taught by a qualified Lama.
Perhaps the best teaching for those who have no faith in dharma is by example.

As this is appearing we probably need to strengthen our practice , develop our understanding of emptiness and have unshakable faith in the dharma.

[Konchog]

Christian -- Very quickly cuz I gotta run: if missionaries misbehaved in my country, I'd expel them and ban them for life. "Freedom of religion" does not include teaching children to hate and fear, this having no basis in any true religious teaching. They're in for a surprise; Purevbat is very powerful here, connected all the way up to the Prime Minister and President.

Secondly, there is a ton of cogent argument in the Mahayana literature detailing the logical fallacy of a separate God as the omnipotent creative force behind phenomenal appearance. But you know this. The obvious examples are Shantideva's Bodhicaryavatara, ch. 9 and Chandrakirti's Madhyamakavatara ch. 6, but there are a zillion more.

[Mongolian christian]

I am a Mongolian Christian and would like to criticize Buddhist lamas. These fat buddhist monks do nothing for Mongolia. Now i think Mongolian communists were right when they called Lamaists parasites of Mongolian society. Nowdays many Buddhist temples and monasteries are being opening in Mongolia. I think this is not very good. We Mongolians have a bitter memories of Mongolian last Buddhist Emperor which was called "Living Buddha". He died in 1924 and then People's Government prohibited his next reincarnation. This so called Living Buddha was not that holy. He became blind because of syphilis and lived a luxurious way of life when Mongolians lived in utter poverty.His name is 8th Javzandamba Bogd Khaan. Now his 9th reincarnation is somewhere in Tibet. We Mongolians do not need him.....

Someone suggest to drive Christians from Mongolia.. No one has the right to drive Mongolian Christians from their Homeland??? Buddhism came from Tibet to Mongolia. In ancient times, some Mongolian tribes followed Nestorian Christianity.

[Christian]

Dear Ja, it seemed that your words were coming directly from lama, who once tought us exactly that... Thanks for reminding me of these precious words.

Konchog, after talking to a Mongolian student I met here, I realised that the tactics of Christian missionaries nowadays are similar to those of Korean Christians 30 years ago in Korea: they come to poor people and offer rice in exchange of their attending church, or some child to be sent (a friend of mine was converted during childhood this way).

You know how much I like contradictory conversation and wondering (sometimes wandering:) I think I feel the same, but it is not easy to formalise these feelings in laws. For instance, teaching fear and hate to children is a not uncommon, especially fear (fear of the father and by, extension, of God). Also, I remember seeing, in a TV documentay about a trial in the USA, similar manipulation of children (crying hate words against the accused). I am afraid these techniques were learned from the outside of Korea but are very successful. This is part of the cultural self-destruction.

I strongly wish that things will evolve differently in Mongolia. I believe your presence there is an example, the kind of example Ja mentionned.

As far as Intelligent Design is concerned, thank you for the references, I am going to re-read the chapters:-) But they do not refer to Intelligent Design directly, but (from memory) to the existence of an self-existing divinity with certain attributes (and then, as a consequence, show some contradiction, in the Madhyamaka way).

Intelligent Design (ID) is different, in the outside. In short, it seeks holes in the evolution theory and natural selection and fill them with pure beliefs. It's a disguised tactic, or even strategy, of some Christian fundamentalists. You can read the EvoWiki or Wikipedia for some starting points. Some minority even believe that aliens created us, which in theory compatible with ID.

Would like to read you more about missionaries activities in Mongolia, if you feel like talking about this topic.

It was a nice post!

[Mongolian Christian]

I do not agree with Mr.Purevbat Lama that Mongolia is a Buddhist nation. Mongolia is a nation which favors no religion better than another. But of course Tibetan Buddhism has a history of political involvement in Mongolia. Our current President is very Buddhist person. Tibetan Buddhism played a very negative role in Mongolian history. Mongolia is a nation which respects all religion be it Buddhism or Christianity.

Praise the Lord Jesus Christ who died to save us.

Bidnii toloo nas barsan Yesus Hristiig magtya

[Mongol dude]

Sain baina uu dear Gonchig Lama!

First of all, a big THANK YOU !!! for your work. Given the harsh and unfamiliar environment that is Mongolia (no kiddin’), I am impressed with your attitude and efforts – they are truly worthy of a lama. I have stumbled on your blog yesterday and have spent the better part of the day enjoying your stories and pictures.

Now the issue of Christian missionaries. Mongolia is a secular state (laïque) with religion being a matter of personal (and private he-he-he) choice. However, Buddhism is part of our heritage, culture and traditions that was almost completely obliterated and IMHO restoring it would be beneficial for our sense of identity and self-worth.

Hordes of Christian evangelists of various denominations rushed in to fill the post-communism void, deploying lavish funding and high-pressure proselytizing (glossy leaflets, scholarships abroad, parties with music and free food, etc). Contrast that with dirt-poor and disorganized local Buddhist movement in no position to compete. Now, this in itself is not a crime. My beef is with the METHODS used.

There are numerous blatant misrepresentations, deceptions and outright lies habitually employed by these peddlers. They associate Buddhism with backwardness and poverty, and attribute the technological and scientific achievements of the West to its Christian roots. Hello? I thought that it was the inquisitors who burnt millions of women at stake for witchery in the Dark Ages (a fate shares by early thinkers such as Bruno) and whose iron grip forestalled all scientific progress for centuries. Now, correct me if I’m wrong, but your typical Bible-belt evangelist is anything but a proponent of scientific progress. Often they impersonate English teachers, and use their propaganda as educational material. How deplorable.

Religion is a personal choice and it should be an informed choice. The presence of western monks like Gonchig is in that sense invaluable. It does help level the playing field. I have deep respect for all Christian faiths, as I feel that the underlying message is more or less the same. Also, as always, diversity and discussion are commendable. But to quote Gonchig Lama, I hope that “when the chips are down, most Mongolians turn to awesome lamas like this”.

Oops, sorry it got so long..